Here’s a thought: 'Life isn't worth living unless you're willing to take big chances.'

Who said that? Could it be a quote from the captain of the Titanic?

No, it comes from a blackboard at the Netherton Hall in Frodsham. Yes, it seems a strange message to greet anyone about to eat there for the first time.

Did it mean the experience was going to be a big risk? Were we take taking a huge gamble? More of that later. Pubs always have a barrack room lawyer but it seems the Netherton has a dining room philosopher. One of its quirks is a thought for the week to get the punters thinking - and this was it.

But it was quickly apparent that this delightfully ivy-clad pub-restaurant on the edge of town is quirky in the nicest possible way.

Val and I were escorted to our seats in a section bearing a sign saying it was the library, with no smoking. There were some bookshelves stacked with volumes but it turned out to be cosy and relaxing with a nice feel to it and with a lovely white lily sitting on our table.

It’s not surprising that the Netherton has a slightly odd past. Its name comes from a local family of means who originally built a home on what was a grassy knoll in the days when dry land in marshy Frodsham was a welcome commodity. It was, however, eventually replaced by a half-timbered pub called the Whalebone Inn, which sported just that outside.

It was said the large bone came from a whale beached in the River Mersey - not so much a Moby Dick but a Moby Scouse.

But in the 19th Century the old inn was demolished and the fine Georgian building we see today was erected. What became of the whalebone is not clear, although it would certainly have filled a fair few corsets.

I know all this because the Netherton obligingly tells everyone with the help of a series of old photographs and captions on its walls. As an adopted Frodshamite, I was fascinated to see some of the sepia scenes from the days when steam engines sat outside local shops and a popular attraction was scaling Jacob's Ladder on Frodsham Hill.

Another of the Netherton's endearing quirks is a fondness for blackboards - and not just for chalking up profound thoughts. We had a wine list on our table but no sign of a menu. That was because there ain't any. Instead, it's all laid out in white and black on the wall.

The waitress said this was because the dishes changed every day - but surely that could be remedied by a computer and printer? It means no sooner have you sat down, you have to get up again and go and stand in front of the blackboard. That brought back one or two dark memories of schooldays for me, when being called up to the blackboard was a fate worse than being a beached whale in the Mersey.

What followed, however, was exquisite. The chalk menu has plenty to offer and a nice range with a touch of the unusual. How often do you see pan-fried liver anywhere nowadays?

First taste test, however, was to wet our whistles. We chose a bottle of La Vedette Sauvignon Blanc at £15 and it was excellent. On to the starters, with Val opting for broccoli and cheese soup while I selected tandoori spring rolls with a mint and yoghurt dip. The little touches make all the difference and there was no waiting as we were quickly offered crusty bread with an extra virgin olive oil dip to start taking the edge off our hunger.

Both starters were briskly delivered and were just perfect. Life was beginning to seem worth living.

But then - shock, horror - Val decided not to have fish, which is just about as rare as finding hens with teeth. I thought perhaps it was the whale which put her off but she then confessed she’d had smoked salmon for lunch - sounds like a WAG's life! Instead, she chose wild mushroom risotto with chicken breast and I ordered half a roast duckling in orange and Cointreau sauce.

Again they came in good time - and boy, were they good. The wild mushrooms had a taste far removed from their tame cousins on the Tesco shelves and the duckling was fantastic. So often this fowl is foul in restaurants because it is overcooked and dry but this was moist, tasty and done to perfection. The risotto came with a nicely dressed salad while the duck was accompanied by carrots, cauliflower and cabbage as well as large roasted potato wedges.

Both Val and I were impressed by the superb service and the beautifully relaxing atmosphere of the Netherton. It was all spot-on and we were in the mood to chill-out before thinking about sweets.

Everyone else in the restaurant seemed to be taking their time and thoroughly enjoying themselves - the clock had stopped. When we eventually decided the main courses had digested enough, it was back to the blackboard again. From a mouth-watering selection, we picked creme brulée and sherry trifle. Both were crowned with a strawberry, raspberry and blackberry. True to the rest of the meal, they were delightful.

The prices were more than reasonable considering the high quality of the food. In a nice gesture, our bill was accompanied by a thank-you card. We wished we had brought one to give them.

As we departed, I was kicking myself for not having been there sooner.

The Netherton is impressive both inside and out and well worth a visit, not just for a meal but to sit outside and enjoy a drink on a sunny day in the pleasant beer garden. Cask beers and lunch-time bar snacks are also available.

Its slogan - 'for the more discerning diner' - may seem slightly pretentious but it more than lives up to it.

It all left me with my own thought for the week to offer the Netherton Hall - whale meet again!

FACTFILE

Netherton Hall, Chester Road, Frodsham; www.nethertonhall.com

01928 732342

Price: £47.50 for two, three courses each; bottle of wine, large bottle of water £19.

Best thing: Superb food, crisp service and thoroughly relaxing ambiance.

Worst thing: No table menus.

Would suit: Gourmets, romantic couples, special occasion diners.

Wouldn’t suit: Anyone who wants a quick meal will be selling themselves short.