There’s something deeply depressing about witnessing the steady decline of a place which holds fond memories – especially when you have to do it twice a day.
As someone who travels to work from Frodsham to Crewe by the quickest route, 25 miles of glorious country lanes, I have seen the change of fortunes of the pub by the lake all too closely as I passed.
Popping in for a pint over the past few years has become an increasingly lonelier experience as it went gradually downhill, with landlords coming and going.
It all culminated in the inevitable closure of The Carriers Inn last year, leaving me to wonder if it would ever reopen.
What a loss, as I had spent some happy drinking times there and, even further back in almost prehistoric times, I used to bike there from Cuddington with my mates for a swim in Hatchmere Lake, followed by a packet of crisps and a bottle of ginger beer served from a hatch in the side of the building. Life was, indeed, a lot simpler in those days when my only worry was whether I’d get a puncture on the way home.
To see the Carriers closed, then, was inexplicable. How could this be when it has so much going for it?
Estate agents reckon there are three things that sell houses and, I suspect, public houses – location, location and location. By that token it should be one of the top pubs and restaurants in Cheshire, perched as it is on the edge of Delamere Forest, right next to a lake which is sublimely unspoiled and slap in the middle of an area swarming with visitors on a sunny day.
The inn itself dates back to 1637, is reputed to be haunted and was once home to the village smithy. In recent times it has had a couple of makeovers and should have boomed instead of busted.
But places are about people, not bricks and mortar, and it seemed to me that the Carriers had been poorly managed at times, going downmarket in an era when rural Cheshire is heading remorselessly upmarket.
Imagine my delight to suddenly see the scaffolding springing up, more than a lick of paint going on and then, a week or two ago, it was back like Lazarus risen from the dead. I couldn’t get in there quick enough.
Although still a work in progress with a big extension unfinished, the Carriers has undergone the mother of all Changing Rooms transformations. Gone is the taproom and pool table which used to be monopolised by hairy bikers; gone are the dusty ‘arty’ bookshelves full of volumes sold by the yard and gone is the dated pine furniture.
In their place is a stylish pub-restaurant, intimate but friendly, staffed by a new regime with a mission to turn it into a success story.
Talking of staff, Val and I were not sure when we had last seen so many in one place with at least six of them appearing at our tables over the evening. They were more than anxious to please. Nothings sells better than novelty and it was a good job we had booked. As we were shown to a discreet table for two, the people beside us at the bar were leaving because it was so busy.
Drinks first. We chose a very pleasant bottle of Canaletto Pinot Grigio at £13.75 from a full wine list which comes with clear and thankfully understated descriptions. Ours was said to be ‘clean, fresh and dry with a stunning citrus flowery taste’ which is plenty detailed enough for me.
Then to the menu. The choice is excellent – not a bewildering array of dishes or a limited, basic list but an enticing, well thought-out selection of eight starters and nine or 10 main dishes – three of them vegetarian – with five side order options. For anyone wanting a quicker bite, there is also a range of open sandwiches.
After a stomach-challenged day at work, I wanted a big starter – and fast. So I shellfishly went for the dearest one, pan-seared scallops with a sweet potato cake and a crisp endive and balsamic dressing, at £7.95. After all, I’m no Gordon Ramsay but I imagine pan-searing is pretty quick. Val chose soup of the day, which was vegetable, with crusty bread (£3.95).
As befits a newly opened place, the service was rapid and the starters were in front of us almost as quickly as the bottle of plonk. Both were excellent, with the scallops little more than touching the side as they swiftly disappeared into my belly and Val describing her soup as perfect, which has to be 11 out of 10 on anyone’s rating.
Fancying something different than usual for main course, I went for roast suckling pig in a calvados sauce with Somerset apples, rosti potatoes and baby vegetables (£14.50).
Val hesitated over the pappadelle pasta with butternut squash before deciding to have grilled sea bass on crushed new potatoes with pea puree and white wine dill sauce (£13.95).
Again the dishes arrived in good time – and very good they were, too. The last time I had roast suckling pig, it was at a Round Table barbecue but this was a lot tastier.
Val was, again, more than pleased with her choice apart from the pea puree, suggesting she would prefer to stick with them fresh or mushy.
By now, we were more than chilled-out after a stressful week keeping the wolf from the door. Ambience, atmosphere, feel-good factor, call it what you will, the new Carriers was definitely hitting the spot.
The dessert list was as good as the rest of the menu – a mouth-watering choice of seven or eight as well as local ice cream or British and locally produced cheeses, including Joseph Heler’s finest Cheshire, and Delamere Golden Brie, which I have never of before.
We ordered summer berry meringue served with fresh cream and fruit coulis (£4.95) and home-made Toblerone creme brulee.
True to form, they came speedily and were delicious.
On this showing, the reborn Carriers should grow into a very healthy child. Those who try it once will want to go back.
Don’t be put off that building work is going on. It certainly did not detract from our enjoyment but when it is completed, it will make it even easier on a warm evening to stroll into to the lovely beer garden and sit contentedly beside the lake while your food continues its journey.
‘You can bring me here every week if you want,’ said Val.
Now, it doesn’t get better than that.
FACTFILE
The Carriers Inn, Delamere Road, Hatchmere, Norley
01928 787877
Price: £50.25 for a meal for two; £19.55 for drinks (bottle of wine, one Pepsi, two bottle of mineral water).
Best thing: Relaxed ambience with excellent service and good food.
Worst thing: Still some building work going on.
Would suit: Those looking for a delightful meal combined with a visit to glorious countryside.
Wouldn’t suit: Those who rely on public transport in the evening.
