Last month Kelsall teenager Alex Staniforth set off on the challenge of his lifetime as he aimed to become the youngest Briton to climb Mount Everest.
The 18-year-old had self-funded the trip and received thousands of pounds in sponsorship for the trek before setting off on March 29 to fulfil his dream and raise money for charity.
But tragedy struck on April 19 when a freak avalanche killed 16 sherpa guides – leaving Alex and the other climbers stuck at base camp.
After what Alex calls ‘civil strife and politics’ between sherpas and the Nepalese government, to his disbelief, the trek was called off.
Here, Alex speaks exclusively to CARMELLA DE LUCIA from Kathmandu about his experience.
"Our trek to base camp was fantastic, taking in the stunning environment, culture and ascent of Gokyo Ri.
My team and I were acclimatised to the altitude when we arrived at base camp. The avalanche happened the day before and the rest of our team witnessed it.
Two team members are doctors and were some of the first on the scene, voluntarily going into the icefall to assist with the rescue effort.
I know how difficult it is to walk at altitude like this so Westerners being involved in a rescue at this altitude for a long day is a serious undertaking.
Many witnessed the harrowing scene of helicopters bringing bodies down from the icefall. It’s one of the most dangerous sections of the climb - a huge moving glacier littered with huge seracs and unstable debris. Avalanches aren't uncommon here but they’re rarely large or solid enough to cause damage.
Contrary to press reports, the mountain, icefall and route was no more dangerous than usual. The serac that fell had been there for many years and tragically fell at the worst possible time.
A ladder in the icefall collapsed, causing a backlog of the Sherpas in the dangerous area. If ‘traffic’ was moving normally, maybe 3 or 4 sherpas would have been hit rather than 16.
Two of my team were due up that day, and just three days later, I’d have been myself. It doesn't bear thinking about. Why them, not us?
Thankfully our sherpas weren't involved but they all know each other so it was extremely sad for them. Our team worked with the same sherpas for years which definitely affected our leaders who all support local people by sponsoring their schools and more.
We agreed a mourning period for the sherpas who left base camp to be with their families.
When we arrived at camp it was a solemn and quiet atmosphere.
Our manager told us they were sure things would return to normal so we’d keep acclimatising and giving people the time they needed.
This is where things changed and the tragedy was hijacked by political protagonists with an agenda. We aren’t sure what they were trying to achieve but it seemed to shut down the whole season.
Although the traumatised sherpas returned to work, they were being intimidated and threatened by the protagonists.
If they went into the icefall they’d have their legs broken - serious and credible threats.
We couldn’t risk our sherpas by allowing them to follow us. They’re loyal, hardworking people, and contrary to press reports, are proud to be climbing sherpas.
The mountain was never closed. Some who lost sherpas in the avalanche understandably pulled out. Others were intimidated by the Maoists and left. This is where we lost strength in numbers. Western teams rely on each other for resources, so this worried us and spelled our downfall.
A team with 70 sherpas pulling out was a massive blow and the situation worsened. We were assured this was between sherpas and government- not us.
But even our sirdar and western base camp manager were threatened by mobs and tensions grew- we felt vulnerable.
The final blow was when the 'icefall doctors', Nepali men who set the route through the Icefall were also threatened. Without them we couldn't continue.
The government acted as if nothing was wrong, telling the sherpas and icefall doctors to continue. But they totally hijacked the tragedy, held us to ransom and almost forgot about their fallen brothers.
As other crippled teams left, we knew we'd lost our strength in numbers. I'm grateful to Tim, and the other leaders in our camp who worked hard to resolve the situation.
We were ready to climb alongside our sherpas - some didn't want to climb due to bodies of the sherpas still being on the mountain- but many did.
It was a gut-wrenching blow when we were told to go down, after months of training, fundraising, preparation and sacrifices to achieve my ambition. We trekked out of base camp having not even stepped on Everest. I do feel fortunate to be safe. and saddened so many climbing sherpas had to die in such an unfortunate way.
I feel everyone has lost out here - the political agenda’s stripped people of our ambitions and hard work, but also the sherpas of their livelihoods and incomes.
It just seems ridiculous, pointless. It's been an emotional roller coaster - frustrating, upsetting and worrying.
I've put a lot on the line and feel pretty gutted. I felt physically sick at the time and it still doesn't feel right this has come to an unnecessary and sudden end and we couldn't even experience the mountain we'd worked so hard for. I felt strong and confident trying to raise £29,035 for my chosen charities but have fallen far short as a result- raising about £5,000.
Seeing negative press about ‘greedy Westerners’ has made an unbelievable situation even more frustrating.
The Nepalese government offered our $10,000 permits valid for five years but we were ready and put a lot on the line to be here this year. At 18 I had to entirely self fund the trip. It's unfair to label us all - we have worked extremely hard to get here. There’s an unfair stereotype I feel is due to inaccurate press reports putting us in a bad light and people who’ve never been on expedition making unfair judgements on inaccurate information. Most climbers were charity fundraisers who care and respect local people but we’ve been cheated of our ambition.
I will come back to Everest next year, either from the Nepalese or Tibetan side, which is cheaper but more dangerous and serious.
I’ll need to see whether the Nepalese resolve this to ensure it doesn't happen again.
I’ve devoted my life to completing this project and fortunate to be able to try again.
I'll be back into training and fundraising so next year I'm even better prepared. The key to success is picking yourself up again and coming back stronger."
To support Alex, visit www.alexstaniforth.com.
