‘Taking the scenic route’ is one such phrase associated with stepping back from the hustle and bustle to really appreciate the good things that you’d otherwise miss.
However, my missus had the phrase a little too close to heart when she, in Morecambe and Wise fashion, decided to get me to turn on to the right road, but not necessarily in the right direction.
No matter, it was a lovely sunny spring evening and such a trip along pleasant country lanes to get back on track was ample preparation for the atmosphere of The Farndon.
Situated on the High Street of the village from which it takes its name, the Farndon has recently been refurbished into what is described as ‘a gastro-pub with rooms’, and applause is due to whoever designed the place – opulent reds and golds contrasting nicely with a magnolia-style white to keep it all under control. The soft furnishings were very comfortable and Kate and I relaxed, out-of-the-way car journey forgotten, and waited, we assumed, to be taken through to our table.
However, in a pleasant surprise, we were served where we sat – first menus and then our food appeared on the table in front of our sofa, which meant we could eat while still watching the Prime Minister field awkward questions on the White House lawn via the silent, subtitled plasma screen on the wall opposite.
The small bar fielded a good choice of beverages, real ales in particular – the special on the day in question being a well-kept Theakston’s Old Peculiar and a coke for the designated driver brought to our table by the waiter.
The a la carte menu was simple and uncluttered, consisting of about half a dozen starters, seven main dishes, plus the grill. This said, it still provided a decent choice with something pretty much for everyone’s tastes. There is also a daytime menu and an early diners’ menu with two courses for £9.95.
Choosing from the a la carte, Kate’s starter consisted of the house pate with a lightly curried pear chutney with sultanas accompanied by salad leaves dressed in a mustard vinaigrette. The chutney seemed an unorthodox choice but complemented the pate brilliantly. The pate itself was smooth and buttery, chilled and accompanied by freshly toasted bread and a wedge of butter.
I opted for the chicken Caesar salad because it contained all the elements of the traditional dish, including one which tends to escape most modern incarnations – the humble anchovy. Add to that crunchy crutons, crisp lettuce, chunks of chicken, anchovy fillets topped with Caesar dressing, flakes of parmesan and a perfect soft boiled egg with a viscous yolk trickling its way down.
I fancied the look of the traditional British favourite on offer – fish and chips. Two pieces of haddock in a light, but crisp, beer batter with homemade mushy peas, tartar sauce, wedge of lemon and a choice of thin or fat chips. I took the thin ones much to my wife’s raised eyebrow. The batter was probably the best I have ever tasted on fish, while the haddock, a change from cod, was pure white with a proper flaky texture. The tartar sauce was simple, acidic but almost sweet, a great accompaniment. The mushy peas were far from the soggy lumpy fare from most chip shops.They had a little more substance to them, and the chips, while pre-salted, were very moreish.
Kate picked out the pork fillet wrapped in smoked bacon (thick smoked bacon, not the Italian sort that you can see through) sage and onion mashed potato, sautéed wild mushrooms and spinach finished with a pink Madeira cream sauce sprinkled with chopped chives. The pork fillet had been sliced into thick rounds and was tender with tons of flavour. The sauce was light and creamy and the spinach lightly wilted with thinly sliced mushrooms weaved through it.
The waiter bobbed over once more to refresh the drinks – another coke and this time a whisky. The waiter offered a choice of blend or malt, and after Kate plumped for a malt the waiter then reeled off an impressive list of which Kate went for one of her favourites – the 16-year old Lagavulin.
As we sat with our drinks we contemplated the possibility of dessert, particularly as Kate had previously spied a raspberry crème brulée that looked quite interesting. However, time was ticking on and our waiter, although attentive, didn’t seem to be forthcoming at offering the dessert menu.
In the end time got the better of us and we settled for the bill instead. We stepped out into the fresh springtime night and decided we would just have to go back for dessert another night. Still, two out of three ain’t bad.
Factfile
Location: The Farndon, High Street, Farndon, Cheshire CH3 7PU
Tel: 01829 270570
Website: www.thefarndon.co.uk
Meal: Two starters, two main courses, six drinks – £45.85.
Best bit: Amazing haddock
Worst bit: Not being approached with dessert menu.
Would suit: Anyone searching for a good meal in a relaxed, calm environment
Would not suit: Those who like their restaurants to be bustling.
