ABANDONING the wedding diet for one more week and feeling I'd earned a revision break by staring at the same page for 12 hours we headed into uncharted territory, well Higher Burwardsley, and The Pheasant Inn.

I say uncharted as the journey into the deepest Cheshire countryside - it's a whole 15 minutes from Chester - for two confirmed city dwellers proved to be a little fraught.

The whole marvellous adventure was close to ending in a happy meal at McDonald's as tempers flared on the fourth trip past the wrong pub but a few deep breaths and six wrong turns later we happened upon our rather picturesque location.

We were going on a recommendation from one of our 'you can't beat a spicy cous cous and glass of chablis' friends so we should really have expected the BMW, Porsche packed car park.

It's easy to forget that Cheshire is on of the wealthiest counties in the country, if you ever need reminding you could drop into the Pheasant Inn and get your full quota of pale pink shirts, deck shoes and girls called Pippa in one visit.

That said the atmosphere is relaxed enough and the chirpy staff more than make up for the feeling of posturing that lingers in the air.

The collection of buildings that make up the award winning Pheasant Inn are firmly nestled in the breathtaking beauty of the Peckforton Hills and the view from the outside eating area, stretching across the Cheshire Plain to the Welsh hills, has an undeniable 'king of the world' feeling about it.

If you get to see it that is. Problem is that the four large wooden tables, with even larger canvas umbrellas, are like the pub's unofficial VIP area and unless you are blessed enough to land one it's hard to sit back and soak it up.

That aside, the place is gorgeous, admittedly we were there on one of the hottest days of the year and sunshine can make a wheelie bin look more attractive, but it is a little haven of good food and beautiful scenery.

The menu is surprisingly reasonable, with main courses starting at £8.95 for cod in beer batter, mushy peas, tartar sauce and chips all the way up to a 10oz fillet of Aberdeen Angus on green beans and cherry tomatoes, with sauteed potatoes and a red wine sauce at £17.95, with plenty of choice in between.

The range of starters is also impressive and as far away from the usual deep fried potato skins and breaded garlic mushrooms as you could pray to be.

No doubt calling in some favours from their regular farming clientele they offer fresh local asparagus with hollandaise sauce for £5.45 and, casting their net further afield, sizzling monkfish and tiger prawns on sweet chilli jam with toasted pesto dipping bread for £8.25.

Fancying some traditional fare I opt for fish and chips and he went for the 'man' choice of braised lamb shank, with a roasted garlic and mint gravy, mash and sugar peas (£12.95).

When it comes to ordering drinks we are faced with that age-old conundrum of driving to a pub and not being able to indulge your natural alcoholic tendencies whilst there.

The thoughtful proprietors of The Pheasant obviously grew weary of hearing couples have the equally age-old discussion/ argument over who should drive back and pitch their cosy on-site accommodation with the tempting - 'Don't worry about the drive home. Why not stay in one of our 10 en-suite rooms. Please ask a member of the team for room availability' - offer on each menu. Very clever.

Anyway, I win and order a white wine and soda (I did consider Pimms) and he goes for a Wheetwood Best bitter shandy, which costs us an OK £6.

We also decide to share a warmed goat's cheese en croute on crisp endives with kalamata olives and sun blushed tomatoes (£4.95).

The food is served promptly and once we have positioned ourselves so our irises aren't being burnt out of our eyes, we tuck in.

The starter is tasty enough and finished off in record time as we do our finest 'two dogs at a bowl' impression. It leaves plenty of room but would be more than enough for one diner.

When the main courses arrive I have instant order envy and begin to stare longingly in his direction but pride stops me from admitting it and I manage to fuddle together some romantic explanation.

Sadly my disappointment only grows as I find the fish, although a generous portion and no doubt fresh, a bit tasteless and the 'chips' more like mini wedges. Good tartar sauce though.

His lamb is beautiful and falls off the bone, which I remember Gordon Ramsay saying only a week earlier is a very good thing. The mash and sugar snap peas are cooked to perfection too.

The 'pudding' menu offers a delicious choice of nine different treats, including Cheshire Farm Ice Cream in banoffee, strawberries and cream and honeycomb flavours (£3.95).

Deciding that we're sweet enough we get up to leave and, having already been asked to pay the bill because we were eating outside (something we tried desperately not to take personally), we head back to the car.

There seems to be two choices when leaving The Pheasant. Whether by design or happy coincidence a mini thoroughfare through the front seating area allows exiting diners to drive slowly, ever so slowly, past a succession of increasingly impressive cars.

Or there is the route we chose, out the back and up the side.

Address: The Pheasant Inn, Higher Burwardsley, Tattenhall, Cheshire, CH3 9PF. Telephone 01829 770434. Website www.thepheasantinn.co.uk

Price: About £30 for a shared starter, two main dishes and a couple of drinks. The selection of 'light bites' - including sandwiches and salads range from £3.95 - £12.50.

An extensive wine and champagne list offers the choice of 15 red wines (from £13.50-£45.00 per bottle), and 15 white wines (from £13.50- £49.95 per bottle). A bottle of champagne starts at £24.50 and goes all the way up to a Krug Grande Cuvee at £105.

Best Thing: Has to be the setting. You get the feeling they could serve curled up cheese sandwiches and still fill the place on a summer's day. The presentation of food was also impressive and your guaranteed good 'country' portions.

Worst Thing: The menu could become limited on repeat visits and younger, first-time buyer types may want to consider borrowing their mum and dad/ older more successful sibling's car.

Would Suit: Families, there is a good sized garden to the rear, although children aren't allowed at night. Would also serve well for a day out for the grandparents or a treat for your mum and dad - especially if you are trying to convince them you're doing a little bit better than you actually are.