SOME things never change, even after 21 years of marriage. I like soul music, he likes R 'n' B; I like sitting in the sun, he likes sightseeing; I like ballet, he likes football. Given so many differences, is it any wonder I had difficulty choosing a restaurant for our wedding anniversary?

In the end, I went straight to the top and booked a table at The Arkle in the Chester Grosvenor, not just because it has a reputation in the area to surpass all others, but because my husband loves racing - horse racing that is.

Most people know that The Arkle was named for the steeplechaser owned by Anne, Duchess of Westminster, but I didn't know that it won the Cheltenham Gold Cup three times in a row.

According to my husband, Arkle still remains the benchmark for all chasers.

Not wishing to sound crass, I wondered if the same was true of the restaurant? This is an establishment used to being furlongs ahead of the rest - after all it has held a Michelin star for the 15th year in succession.

Well, the racing theme then went one step further and better. Does anyone remember the character of Stato from Baddiel and Skinner, he of the deadpan expression and encyclopedic knowledge of sport?

Angus Loughran (Stato's real name) is now a racing pundit with The Daily Telegraph and the BBC. But I'd lay odds that his other job is sommelier at The Arkle.

So, Garry Clark, I apologise if I was over eager, but I was fascinated by the likeness and by your knowledge of wine.

He lit a candle under our bottle of Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon when decanting it so he could 'see the sediment gathering in the neck' , and told us that Chile is an underrated and good value wine country.

'Good value' is not a phrase I thought I'd use of The Arkle and with a final bill nudging £150 I'm almost ashamed to mention it without sounding like Marie Antoinette. But if you jump one or two hurdles first, it's a description that I think is justified.

For a start, don't let the rich decor of the bar area fool you into thinking you're in an episode of Sex in the City, or you might find yourself ordering a Kir Royale at £10.50 a glass. And don't, whatever you do, let Garry Clark's charm and star quality persuade you to order a second bottle of wine.

Because even without these indulgences you still get a choice of eight exquisite starters, eight main courses and seven puddings all served in a comforting womb of a room, surrounded by the most charming staff I've ever been served by - all for £55 per person.

The meal came with a few extras, including a leek and watercress vichyoisse in a dainty shot glass, as well as a between-courses sorbet.

For my first course I'd chosen Cornish red mullet ravioli with vegetable nage, pea shoots and herbs. It tasted like summer, perfectly condensed into one large piece of pasta, coated with a light but intensely flavoured, almost consommé-like sauce.

P couldn't fault his rabbit crostini - grilled rabbit tit bits with chopped liver crostini and black mustard. Not a dish I would have chosen based on description alone, but the presentation and flavours moved it straight into the winner's enclosure.

The wine was delicious (£27.50), the ambience relaxed, the staff unobtrusive. As each course was served, they would appear at our side like genies from a bottle performing a well rehearsed 'what's on your plate' show. So before we knew it, we were half way through our main courses.

My husband's turbot and oxtail made me think of medieval banquets and serious over indulgence. But P's opinion was more on a par with Rick Stein's: 'turbot - the best tasting fish in the world'.

The texture was perfectly moist and it was still juicy on the plate. I hesitated at the addition of the oxtail, but by now I was so seduced by The Arkle and all its gastronomic excellence, they could have served it with marshmallows and I would have eaten it, just because executive chef Simon Radley told me to.

My Chelford beef, poached with herbs and foie gras, had the texture of fillet and the full flavour of slowly cooked braising steak - an underrated cut of beef that I happen to love. I was very happy, especially because I was convinced at this stage that I would still be able to order and enjoy a dessert.

But I reckoned without the handicap of the baked treacle short rib.

I was just weighing up the merits of a single plantation Venezuelan chocolate soufflé or a chocolate mille feuille, when a steak knife and fork was placed in front of me.

'Have they made a mistake?' asked P, knowing full well that The Arkle don't do that sort of thing.

The short rib merited a dish all of its own apparently, and while it was melt-in-the-mouth wonderful, my taste buds were already in pudding mode.

So once again I apologise - this time for leaving so much on my plate.

And then for some reason, I faltered at the last. Instead of making chocolate my choice of dessert, I went for the rhubarb tarte fine with ginger beer.

Yes, it was very good; the rhubarb just the right side of sour and the pastry as flaky as a Flake but I looked at the three chocolates with chilled brandy Alexander and marmalade coolant that I insisted my husband have and felt a touch miffed. I couldn't even do his pudding justice by tasting it - the treacle short rib had been my undoing.

Oh, all right then, I managed the tiniest of tastes. But then I had to stop. No coffee, no brandy, just a quick look at my watch and the realisation that we were pushing our luck with the babysitter.

We'd stayed the course - or the five courses to be precise - just like Gold Cup winners ourselves, enjoying all the drama and high notes associated with a classic race. Only this time we were all winners: my husband and I, the birthday table of four adjacent to us, the Japanese tourists on my right and the table of three opposite.

P and I walked home hand-in-hand, already looking forward to a celebration meal for our twenty-second anniversary. As to venue, I have a sneaking feeling that he and I were thinking exactly the same thing.

Finally - we've found something we can agree on.

Location: The Arkle at the Chester Grosvenor and Spa, Eastgate, Chester CH1 1LT

For reservations contact Mike Taylor on 01244 895610. The restaurant is open for dinner every day except Sunday and Monday.

Price: The à la carte menu is £55 per person.

Best thing: The inimitable style that permeates everything from the food to the surroundings.

Worst thing: The price prohibits more frequent visits - maybe that's a good thing - and there's absolutely nothing for vegetarians.

Would suit: Anyone who needs to be reminded that style and romance go hand in hand.