The Joseph Benjamin, Chester - A Christmas cracker

Dec 29 2006 By Jo Henwood

The Joseph Benjamin

The lamb in my hot pot was the tenderest meat I have tasted and the whole experience was exquisite, with the dual benefit of warming me up inside.
 
Unfortunately for us coeliacs, pudding is a bigger challenge. I would love to have tried the sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce (£4.50) or the chocolate and hazelnut brownie with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream but alas, no chance.
 
Mum ordered the apple and cinnamon crumble which was served with a home-made custard. With two prolific apple trees in her garden, she has become a veritable expert on the uses of the forbidden fruit. This crumble not only came up to but exceeded expectations. The apples were just 'tart' enough with had the right degree of crunch; the crumble had just enough cinnamon not to be overpowering. The only problem with the custard was that there was just not enough of it.
 
Oh, to have tried a piece! Joe Wright and his brother Ben have revived our faith in British cooking and I have already booked for a night out with the girls in the New Year.
 
If you can't make lunch, the brothers open the restaurant in the evenings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays or why not take the family for Sunday lunch? You'll love it.

Factfile

* Joseph Benjamin Restaurant, 140 Northgate St, Chester, CH1 2HT Tel: 01244 344 295

* Best thing: The best food in Chester.

* Worst thing: Not enough choice of soft drinks.

* Would suit: Small groups of friends or families although the restaurant can be booked for private parties of 16 - 20 people. The menu changes regularly depending on availability of fresh, local produce.

* Cost: £45 for three courses and coffee plus soft drinks. Wine starts at £10.80 a bottle or £3.20 a glass and goes up to £20.95 a bottle for an Alain Geoffroy Chablis or a Joseph Drouhin Pinot Noir. Champagne available at £34.95 a bottle.