Hidden charms

By Tom Evans, Chester Chronicle

Calveley Arms

Having left four or five of my chips, I reasoned that I had plenty of room for a huge dessert. Erica called it a day after making a sizeable dent in a mountain of pasta which would have easily served two but I went for the pineapple and cherry upside-down pudding. It was a sweet and spongy return to form and a satisfactory end to a meal that had its ups and downs (some self-inflicted).
 
There followed a 20-minute wait for a coffee. I never know how to react when something like that happens. When do I say something without seeming impatient? What do I say without sounding like a moaner? Damn this famed British reserve. I finally plucked up the courage to ask and my coffee was there in a matter of minutes, accompanied by a mint chocolate, profuse apologies and no charge.
 
We were left with mixed impressions. The setting, the staff, the size of the menu and the quality of most of the dishes were definite plusses but my main course was nothing special and a couple of mix-ups were disappointing (if excusable). I'd go again, I'd just pick a less busy night and try a different main course - and rely on a different website to get there.

Factfile

* Calvely Arms, Handley, nr Tattenhall CH3 9DT
* 01829 770619
* Starters: Soup of the day £4.50, hot avocado and stilton £4.75
* Main courses: Pasta Italienne £7.75, lamb cutlets £9.95
* Dessert: Pineapple and cherry upside-down pudding £3.95
* Soft drinks: £5.30
* Total cost for two: £36.20
* Best bit: A truly outstanding set of starters ...
* Worst bit: ... let down by unremarkable mains.
* Would suit: A small group wanting a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and decent food.
* Wouldn't suit: A rowdy, impatient crowd of revellers.