Eastern promise

Sep 15 2006 By Helen Parker, The Chronicle

Siam Thai and Teppan-yaki

Then he asked us to sit back, sloshed some alcohol on the grill and lit it. The flame shot up towards the ceiling and I felt the heat on the tips of my fingers as I clutched my chilled glass of Chablis.

I'm sure it was well rehearsed, but I don't think it was the centuries-old Japanese tradition being staged in front of us, more the westernised version. But this is Chester after all - not Kyoto - and everyone loved it.

Act III involved eggs and a machete-shaped knife (for the vegetable fried rice), two chefs cooking in tandem, sizzling vegetables and lots of light hearted banter with the diners. Squid was expertly cooked in a matter of moments, rice was placed in bowls and duck breast in barbecue sauce served to another near neighbour. We watched, sipped our drinks and discovered that a) our Scottish friends were disappointed at the lack of non-chain store shops in Chester and b) Michael and Petra had only been together for a month.

Our mains included the beef fillet teriyaki at £18.95 and chicken breast with teppanyaki stir fried noodles (£13.50).

They were both good choices; the beef might not have been kobe - from the incredibly expensive beer and saki-fed cattle in the province of Tajima - but it was as good a fillet steak as I've ever tasted.

What was so lovely about the Siam was the fact that some people were having a romantic dinner for two (even if it wasn't me and my husband); two tourists were enjoying a night out in a new city; and a gang of girls was having a fun hen night. There were racegoers, families, a group celebrating a birthday, as well as old married couples (yes, that was us) and everyone seemed happy.

The atmosphere was relaxed, the décor trendy, the staff obliging - even if English wasn't a strong point with every one of them. I think the best way to describe the Siam Thai and Teppan-Yaki Restaurant is to use that brand new Hollywood proverb: 'You might have enjoyed the film Memoirs of a Geisha, but no-one said it was a true representation of her life.'

And as a close approximation, you would be hard pushed to do better.

For those who would rather eat Thai than Japanese, the Thai part of the restaurant is on the first floor. You should indicate your preference when booking.

Factfile

* Siam Thai and Teppan-Yaki restaurant, City Road, Chester.

* Telephone: 01244 403222 pLunch: 1noon to 3pm; evening: 5pm to 11pm (Sat 11:30pm, Sun 10:30pm)

* Best thing: The showmanship of the chefs, the buzzy atmosphere, and the building itself.

* Worst: Not a good venue if you are a real pudding fan - mainly ice-cream.

* Would suit: Those who like a 'themed' night out.

Cost: We paid just over £70 for sushi, two starters and two main courses and a bottle of Chablis. The wine list is extensive and good value.